It’s not every day that you would associate the words ‘food diary’ with children and young people living on the streets.  After all to maintain one they would need food to begin with. Child Rights and You (CRY) volunteers, in their many years of working with children in situations of poverty, realised that the general public don’t really understand what hunger means for children. So volunteers met with children from various backgrounds like those living on the street, young people involved in begging, tribal children and those commonly termed vagrants, to understand more about hunger in measurable terms, through a measurement of the calories they ingest on a daily basis. 

Chronically hungry

Two-and-half-year-old Surjo Basfore lives with his five-year-old sister on Platform No 4 of the Kalyani Railway Station in Kolkata. Their combined earnings -- about Rs 20 to 25 a day -- are handed over to their father, who also begs for a living. Breakfast is about half a puri, which brother and sister share. Lunch is about two handfuls of dal and rice. They usually don’t get an evening snack. Dinner is about two more handfuls of dal and rice or one chapati. Doing the math is easy. The total calorie intake for both children put together is about 1,000 calories. Surviving usually on food thrown away by railway passengers, they face chronic starvation.  
They are too young to understand irony. But both children live within shouting distance of Kalyani’s Food Corporation of India (FCI) godowns which have store about 11,000 metric tonnes of foodgrains.

More than eating

A few years ago the Supreme Court said that foodgrain left to rot in India should be distributed to the poor. Children like six-year-old Vishal will never know. He starts his day with half-a-cup of tea and two biscuits bought by his mother from a pavement stall. Breakfast is one samosa-pav. Lunch is khichdi from a local charity, half of which he saves to eat in the late-afternoon. By night he’s really hungry again, which is when a small packet of fries is bought for Rs 5 – the only amount his mother can spare. Vishal’s recommended dietary intake should be about 1,715 calories. He barely makes 800. Food might be scarce but Vishal’s address is a posh one. He stays in the backyard slums of Mumbai’s Khar area known for its schools, shopping malls, hospitals and steep residential property prices. All it lacks is an anganwadi, which would have gone a long way to keep children like him fed.

Tribal and neglected

Six-year-old Dharma Pahariya and Sani Paharin, from the Godda district of Jharkhand, called the Santhal Pargana, have been eating only rice and salt twice a day. Their total calorie intake is a meagre 440 calories or about one-fourth of the 1,715 calories they should be eating.

Hailing from the Pahariya tribal community they live in a parched forest that has not seen enough rain in the last few years. Food is scarce. Malaria and Kala-Azar are still dreaded threats, as they were 200 years ago. Earlier this year, media reports on the spurt of Kala-Azar cases in tribal-dominated Boyarizore and Sundar Paharia blocks in the district, prompted the Godda health department to push the panic button. But little has improved.

Food is so much more than just filling stomachs. Both doctors and people who work with children state that nourishment gaps at this age will result in lifelong poor health. Such severely malnourished children will not have age-appropriate levels of development in terms of height, weight and cognitive development. 

For such children the options are rather limited. A local nutrition rehabilitation centre (NRC) in Majhgaon, near Satna in Madhya Pradesh, a Government of India programme, runs a 15-day ‘course’ to bring near-death cases of malnourishment back from the brink of death with a two-week injection of essential food. The centre admits and gives food to only infants, and not to older children or parents, making the entire effort rather pointless, given that usually entire settlements are dying of hunger. Media reports say that 10 children have succumbed to hunger over the last year in this area.

“The condition here is so bad that the food distributed by the neighbourhood anganwadi is brought back home by the children and shared with the entire family,” says Sasmita Jena from CRY. “And since the infants are small they are the last priority and are only breastfed by the mother.”

It wasn’t easy for the volunteers working on the project to gather the data. Satyajit, the volunteer from Kolkata, who documented Surja’s food diary, says, “Extreme poverty, poor health and malnourishment made Surja’s parents reluctant to participate in the project.”

There was a time when Oliver asked for more and changed the way literature viewed orphans forever. Hunger stalks every child who is poor, whether from tribal areas or urban pockets of poverty. India’s children in poverty might not all be orphans but they certainly need more, especially in terms of nourishment.  After all. stable economic growth can’t be sustained on a future that’s so hungry today.

(Paromita Pain is a senior reporter and sub-editor with The Hindu and its feature supplements Young World and NXg

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A burger three times a day. With fries

Everyone loves a good burger. But would anyone want to eat one everyday? For three meals? For a month? And eat nothing else? This probably sounds disgusting even to the most ardent fast food fan. Yet one man did just that, and filmed himself doing that to prove a point. The point he wanted to prove? That no matter what they say in their advertising, fast food restaurants like McDonald's are not good for your health. The logic is, of course, that if something is good for you, eating it everyday certainly shouldn't be bad. But he got sick, dangerously sick, to the point where doctors were worried about him. For this the movie has become quite famous and controversial since it battles against the fast food culture that is so prevalent in the USA and other western countries, and, sadly, is making inroads into the bigger cities in India .

The title of the movie, Supersize Me , comes from a phrase McDonald's employees are taught to say to customers, to ask if they want to increase the size of the meal from the ordinary standard size to a larger 'super size' one (by paying a little bit more). America film director Morgan Spurlock got the idea for the movie after he read about two girls in the US who sued McDonald's saying that its food had made them dangerously fat. During the case, McDonald's lawyers said that their food was not unhealthy and could be part of a "nutritious diet". The girls lost the court case, but Spurlock was intrigued by the notion that McDonald's food was healthy. So he decided to test it on himself and film himself doing it. First he got himself properly checked out by doctors to make sure he was actually healthy before he started the test. He interviewed doctors, including the US surgeon-general -- the man who decides official American health policy. The surgeon-general warned him about the dangers of fast food. But, ignoring his advice, Spurlock started eating. Each meal for an entire month would be in McDonald's. On top of this he had three other 'rules'. One, he could only eat what was available over the counter at McDonald's, nothing specially made for him and nothing from outside. Two, he never asked for anything to be 'super sized' unless he was asked. Finally, he had to try everything offered on the menu at least once during the month.

Between meals Spurlock also interviewed McDonald's fans, nutritionists, anti-fast food campaigners and fast food industry employees. With all this, Spurlock paints a horrible picture of the whole business of selling fast food. He shows how greed and the desire to make more and more money can lead to very unhealthy diets and a whole generation of unhealthy people. The idea that we should eat and enjoy what's good for us is gone; now we eat what we are sold and told to like.

The first McDonald's opened in 1955. There are now over 13,000 outlets all over the world. One of the reasons they do so well is because, as Spurlock shows, a 'fast food addiction' is similar to a drug addiction, and people do get hooked. More frightening, as the movie illustrates, is the fact that, in all its advertisements, McDonald's directly aims at children who do not understand that high amounts of salt and sugar and deep-fried foods are probably not good for them. McDonald's marketing has been remarkably successful; more children around the world now recognise Ronald McDonald -- McDonald's' marketing mascot -- than the traditional heroes of their own countries. And they would rather have a Happy Meal than a meal cooked at home and enjoyed around the family table. Spurlock doesn't only blame McDonald's, he also points a finger at the US government that allows the marketing and sale of food that's harmful to its citizens.

In the movie a number of arguments come across in the interviews. But the strongest is what happens to Spurlock himself. In the movie there's a time when he is actually so disgusted with what he is eating that he vomits out his meal. In spite of this he goes on to complete the month. He finishes his 30 days having gained 25 pounds in that short time, develops dangerously high levels of cholesterol in his blood and damages his liver.

The movie is quite a strong condemnation of the whole fast food culture, especially since it came at a time when McDonald's was having other problems. Like the famous 'McLibel' court case in Britain where a judge actually said that McDonald's was responsible for animal cruelty in the way it sources its meat and that it exploited children through its advertising. Another case was in the USA where McDonald's had to settle a lawsuit that claimed it should be informing customers that it used a particularly unhealthy kind of oil.

Partly because of the movie and the court cases McDonald's has started offering slightly healthier eating options in some countries. One change that the movie has brought about is that, in many countries including the US, McDonald's no longer asks people if they want to 'super size' their meal! But in India , where both the fast food culture and obesity are rapidly taking hold of the urban middle class, it's going to be a long time before we realise that aping the west is bad for our health.

 
 
   
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